So, its been a long two years the world has waited to see the highly anticipated Panerai PAM00438 Tuttonero 44mm 1950 Ceramic GMT. I recently had the opportunity to hold, play and try one on. I am not a fan of Panerai watches on bracelets because I am a purest who is obsessed with its history and origins.
Panerai bracelets are modern innovative and distinct from any other watch available in the market today. This particular watch on a bracelet is even more unique because its made out of black ceramic. Ceramic watches have become popular in the last few years in part because of the influence and popularity of Panerai watches. Panerai has not only made watches in an all black finish cool to wear but collectible and highly sought after.
The Panerai PAM00438 is a 44mm 1950 GMT with a 3 day in-house P9001 movement in black ceramic. The watch is very comfortable, has a great weight, easy to read and easy to set. The matte black ceramic bracelet is elegant, as each link is reminiscent of the device protecting the crown which further enhances the brands trademark and reinforces its identity. The black sandwich Arabic dial showcases 11 Panerai numbers and a date at the three o’clock position in a contrasting dirty rusty gold, which is a great contrast to the black ceramic case and bracelet. The clasp is made out of titanium, which is very smart on the part of Panerai because the stress points of a bracelet always lie within the clasp. Titanium is a very hard, light and durable material. The GMT hand is very easy to set with the winding crown and is easily distinguished from the hour and minute hand because of its size and shape.
Think you can easily get your hands on this watch? Think again! There are only 1,000 units of this model being produced per year for the world. Should you have the means to purchase this watch and you are interested, you should. The retail price of this watch is $16,300 at the moment, nothing is official or confirmed but I hear a price increase is coming real soon.
Technical Details of the Panerai PAM00438 Tuttonero
Automatic mechanical, Panerai P.9001/B calibre, executed entirely by Panerai, 13¾ lignes, 7.9 mm thick, 29 jewels, Glucydur® balance, 28,800 alternations/hour. Incabloc® anti-shock device. Power reserve 3 days, two barrels. 229 components.
Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, second time zone, power reserve indicator on the back, seconds reset.
Diameter 44 mm, black ceramic.
See-through sapphire crystal.
DEVICE PROTECTING THE CROWN
(protected as a trademark) Black ceramic.
Black with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers. Date at 3 o’clock, seconds at 9 o’clock.
Sapphire, formed of corundum, 2.3 mm thick. Anti-reflective coating.
10 bar (~100 metres).
PANERAI personalised ceramic bracelet with sandblasted steel buckle. Supplied with a steel screwdriver.
* The trademark Velcro® and Coramid® are not property of Officine Panerai.
This year marks a momentous occasion for the Tag Heuer Carrera. This watch is the first sports chronograph designed specifically for professional drivers and sports-car enthusiasts. So, it was very fitting that the Goodwill Festival of Speed was the stage used to celebrate the 50th birthday of the Tag Heuer Carrera.
To commemorate this moment in time, Tag Heuer have released a very special Carrera 1887 Jack Heuer Chronograph. This watch is quite interesting in its execution. The asymmetric 45 mm case in stainless steel is quite modern, futuristic and geometric, while the chronograph pushers are located with the crown and are slightly recessed into the case at the 12 o’clock position. The reason for this design was because it was inspired by a stopwatch. The movement used is the 1887 caliber with integrated column wheel.
The chronograph is a dual register with anthracite grey subdials, while the hour and minute hand of that watch are contrasting in white.
Tag Heuers commitment to preserving the past with modern day technical innovation ensures their relevance in the watch market for the future.
TAG Heuer Honorary Chairman Jack Heuer is here celebrated in a spectacular edition inspired by the two-part construction Heuer stop watches that he once used on pro racing circuits around the world.
The technical details, however, are all leading-edge, with elements borrowed from Formula One and aeronautics: black titanium carbide steel bezel, hand-brushed and polished to a high sheen; polished, fine brushed and sandblasted steel and titanium cage; tachymetre and pulsometre on the dial.
Rubber straps for watches can be one of the most annoying and unflattering accessories to buy. Most of the time they never look right and are way overpriced; and I am amazed how this one thing can make expensive watches look really cheap and pedestrian or it can make an inexpensive watch look expensive depending on the style, shape and quality.
Rubber B is a company that makes the best rubber straps in the world in my opinion. They are 100% made in Switzerland. Their straps are made from the absolute highest caliber material available: pure, genuine Vulcanized Rubber, with no blends, coatings, glues, or bondings. Even though they are not affiliated in any way with Rolex SA, Rubber B specializes in making the best rubber straps in the world for Rolex watches. What makes them different from other after market rubber straps that fit Rolex Watches; Each integrated Rubber B strap is micro-calibrated around the exact watch model(s) for which it has been precisely designed, and has been engineered using “Blocked Integration“, establishing a motionless,rotationless, gap-free mount to your springbars, watch case, and lugs.
Also, you have two buckle options, one where you can take the clasp and deploymant buckle of your Rolex professional sports model which is what I prefer, or you can purchase a pin buckle from Rubber B for an additional $20. The Rubber B straps are available in assortment of colors and retail for $220. As distribution is limited and sold in only 4 places in the US, you can also order these straps on their website here.
I am super excited to see the rubber straps they will be launching this fall 2013 that will fit Panerai watches. I don’t own a Rubber B strap, but I have plenty of friends who do and they all say the same thing, “it’s the most comfortable and well made rubber strap you will ever own”.
The anticipation is killing me , I cant wait. Tudor officially makes its return back to the US in September 2013. Distribution will be tight and everything is in place for Tudor to not only Debut the brand but own the intro-luxury watch market.
There are a lot of watch brands out there in the three to five thousand dollar price range, but I have a feeling Tudor will swallow the competition and spit them out and dominate. At the end of the day, Tudor is a subsidiary brand of Rolex. With re-branding themselves and making a return to the US and having great products and price points, it will be very hard for the other brands to compete.
Those of you who are looking to get into the Rolex family and dont feel like spending ten grand or don’t have the means to do so at this time, you can rest assure that you have variety, quality and incredible styling with Tudor. I had a chance to play with most of the current collection, and let me tell you, I am very impressed.
One watch in particular that I need to own in the current Tudor collection is the Pelagos Divers watch in Titanium. This watch is very reminiscent of the Rolex Submariner. I am very impressed with the construction of the entire watch , from the 42 mm Titanium case, the black ceramic bezel, the titanium bracelet with folding clasp, safety catch and bracelet extension system, to the incredible simplicity of the iconic and timeless 3 handed black dial. Unlike Rolex, Tudor does not produce their movements in house, but they use the very robust and reliable ETA 2824 self-winding movement . This watch is water resistant to 500 m and has a scratch resistant sapphire crystal. This watch is packaged with an additional rubber strap. The best part of this watch is the price, at $4,125, it’s going to be difficult to find another watch that comes close.
Like this watch, Tudor has done a stellar job with creating a very solid collection which I urge you all to take a close look here.
Technical Details of the Tudor Pelagos
Zenith is a watch brand I have admired for many years. They arguably have the best in-house chronograph movement in the market today. They have been manufacturing watches since 1865 and though they are owned by luxury power house LVMH, they operate completely autonomously.
This year at Basel 2013, Zenith released their Pilots collection which has been very well received by the press and collectors alike. The have an entire range of Pilots watches ranging from 40 mm to 57.5 mm in case diameter and complications from GMT to annual calendar and Tourbillons.
The watch that impresses me most out of this new Zenith Pilots collection is the new 48 mm stainless steel Type 20 GMT. While every brand under the sun has tried to copy the look of IWC Big Pilots Watch, Zenith has gone another direction.
This is a very easy to use and well made travel watch. The masculinity of the 48 mm case and simplicity of the matte black Arabic dial makes it an everyday watch, while the GMT second time zone function gives the end user the technical sophisticated side they may be looking for. The luminous Arabic numerals are big and bold without crowding the dial, while the sub-second hand at the 9’oclock position is so seamlessly integrated into the dial and subtle.
The GMT second time zone hand is distinguished from the hour and minute hand by the red tip. I love how well laid out and clear and contrasting the dial of this watch is. The crown is a nicely rounded screw-down onion crown which has no sharp edges like other pilots watches that can cause injury or irritation to the skin. The movement is an in- house elite movement which has been modified to accommodate the GMT function for this watch. The GMT function is operated by a push button at the 10 o’clock position side of the case. The strap is a nice brown calfskin which is rubber lined and a stainless steel pin buckle.
You would think a watch like this being a complete in- house manufacture would be in the ten to twelve thousand dollar range for what you are getting, but I am pleased to tell you that this is one of the best pure valued watches in the industry at $7,900.
Arabic numerals entirely made of SuperLuminova
Case-back engraved with Zenith aviation instruments
Inspired by the legendary Zenith aviation watches